12/03/2015

Yamaha LL6 ARE – The Kitarablogi-video

Yamaha LL66 ARE – beauty shot 2

Maahantuoja: F-Musiikki

11/03/2015

Yamaha LL6 ARE – SoundCloud-demo

Yamaha LL6 ARE – label

Yamaha LL6 ARE – rosette

Yamaha LL6 ARE – beauty shot

Maahantuoja: F-Musiikki

09/03/2015

Kielten vaihtaminen teräskielisessä kitarassa

String change steel string – start

Kielten vaihtamiseen tarvitaan teräskielisessä kitarassa kielisatsin lisäksi terävän leikkurin, sekä viritysmittarin. Halpa muovikampi nopeuttaa virittimien kääntämistä.

Metalliviivoittimella taas mitataan ennen kuin aloitetaan kielten korkeus 12:n nauhan kohdalla. Mittaamisen ansiosta kaularaudan säätäminen helpottuu huomattavasti, jos uusi kielisatsi on ohuempi tai paksumpi kuin vanha. Parasta olisi kuitenkin aina vaihtaa samanpaksuiset kielet päälle – näin soittotuntuma pysyy muuttamattomana, eikä kaularautaa tarvitse silloin tavallisesti säätää.

String change steel string – loosening string

Mielestäni on helpointa ottaa ensin kaikki kielet pois.

Jotkut väittävät, että akustisissa kitaroissa kaikkien kielten yhtäaikainen poistaminen olisi jotenkin soittimelle vahingollista, mutta itse olen aina (vuodesta 1977 lähtien) vaihtanut kielet näin, enkä ole tähän mennessä vielä rikkonut yhtäkään kitaraa. Myös Martin Guitarsin omassa videossa poistetaan heti koko kielisatsi.

String change steel string – cutting old string

Kun kielet ovat täysin löysiä, leikkaan ne keskeltä poikki.

Tämä ei ole välttämättömyys, mutta minusta lyhyet pätkät ovat helpompia käsitellä kuin täyspitkät kitaran kielet.

String change steel string – winder pin puller

Teräskielisissä kitaroissa kielet on kiinnitetty tallaan ns. tallanastoilla (engl. bridge pin), jotka voivat olla muovista, luusta, puusta tai metallista.

Tallanastojen nostamiseen on lähes kaikissa viritinvivuissa pieni syvennys. Tavallisesti tallanasta ja kielen ball-end-rengas ovat näin jumissa, että vipua ei kannata käyttää nastan nostamiseksi, ainakaan heti.

String change steel string – push end in

Useimmissa tapauksissa kielen saa pois käsipelillä:

Työnnä ensin kielen hieman tallan läpi runkoon.

String change steel string – pull pin out 1

Tämä vapauttaa yleensä tallanastan ball-end-renkaan lukituksesta, ja nastan voi nostaa helposti ulos.

String change steel string – pull pin out 2

Jos tallanastaa ei saa – yrityksistä huolimatta – pois käsipelillä, suosittelisin talouspaperin (tai ohuen kangaspalan) käyttämistä tallan ja tallanastan suojaksi.

tak-n20-bridge

Joissakin kitaroissa – etenkin tietyissä Ovation- ja Takamine-malleissa – löytyy myös nastattomia tallaratkaisuja. Näissä talloissa kielet pujotetaan yksinkertaisesti tallan takaosan läpi.

String change steel string – take string off machine head

Tämän jälkeen poistetaan vanhat kielet myös virittimien tapeista.

Kun kaikki vanhat kielet on poistettu, voi tarvittaessa öljytä otelaudan ja tallan sopivalla otelautaöljyllä.

String change steel string – put pin in

Uudet kielet kiinnitetään aina ensin soittimen tallaan, laittamalla ball-endin ja tallanastan paikoilleen.

String change steel string – pull on string

Seuraavaksi kieli vedetään kevyesti ulospäin, samalla kun pidetään tallanastaa paikalla. Näin kiilataan se tallanasta ball-endin avulla kiinni tallaan.

String change steel string – stringing 1

Lavalla kieli työnnetään virittimen läpi…

String change steel string – stringing 2

…vedetään viritintapin ympäri…

String change steel string – stringing 3

…ja lukitaan paikoilleen vetämällä sitä rungosta poispäin.

String change steel string – stringing 4

Yksi käsi painaa kielen alas, kun toinen kiertää sen kireäksi. Kielen pitää kiertää tapin ympäri ylhäältä yhä alemmas.

String change steel string – keep pin in place

Kun viritin alkaa kiristää kieltä yhä enemmän, otan toisen käteni pois lavalta, jotta voin tarvittaessa estää tallanastan nousemista ulos tallasta.

String change steel string – cut off end

Suosittelen ylijäävän palan poistamista – kun kieli on viritetty – katkaisemalla sen läheltä viritintappia. Sen jälkeen taivutan varovaisesti kielityngän hieman kohti lapaa. Ole varovainen, katkaistu kieli on hyvin terävä!

Laitan uudet kielet kitaralle tavallisesti pareittain – ensin E-e, sitten A-h ja viimeiseksi D-g.

String change steel string – strings on machine heads

Onnistunut lopputulos näyttää tällaiselta.

String change steel string – pin height

Tallanastat istuvat tasaisesti tallassa.

String change steel string – string stretching

Kielet pitävät vireen nopeammin, jos niitä venytetään ensimmäisten viritysten yhteydessä: ensin viritetään, sitten venytetään… neljän-viiden kerran jälkeen virityksen pitäisi alkaa asettua.

Otekäsi pitää kielen alhaalla venymisen yhteydessä, jottei satulaan kohdistuisi liikkaa rasitusta.

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Kun kitara on viritetty, voidaan tarkistaa vielä uusien kielten korkeus 12:n nauhan yllä.

Jos kielten korkeus on selvästi suurempi kuin ennen kielten vaihtamista, uusi kielisatsi oli luultavasti paksumpi kuin vanha. Silloin kannattaa kiristää kaularautaa (sopivalla avaimella) noin neljänneskierrosta (korkeintaan puolen kierroksen).

Jos kielten korkeus on selvästi pienempi kuin ennen kielten vaihtamista, uusi kielisatsi oli luultavasti ohuempi kuin vanha. Silloin kannattaa löysätä kaularautaa (sopivalla avaimella) noin neljänneskierrosta (korkeintaan puolen kierroksen).

Kaularaudan tarkoitus on säätää kaulan loivaa kaarevuutta (ns. neck relief). Vaikka kaulan reliefilla on suora vaikutus kielten korkeuteen, kaularauta ei ole varsinaisesti tarkoitettu säätämään kielten korkeutta. Kielten korkeuden oikeaoppinen muuttaminen on soitinrakentajan homma, ja sitä hoidetaan hiomalla (tai vaihtamalla) soittimen tallaluu.

09/03/2015

Changing strings on a steel-string guitar

String change steel string – start

Here’s what you need:

In addition to a fresh set of strings, you should have a wire cutter and a tuner at the ready. An inexpensive string winder makes the process much faster.

A steel rule will come in handy, should you want to double-check your ”before” and ”after” setups. Measure your string height at the 12th fret (top of fret to bottom of string) before taking the old strings off. That way you will be able to use the steel rule to ascertain that your setup has stayed unchanged. Alternatively, you could also measure the neck relief at the seventh fret directly, by using a capo at the first fret, while pressing down the low E-string at the 14th fret.

Ideally, though, you should stick to the exact same string gauge (and even string brand) to avoid inadvertently changing the playability of your acoustic guitar.

String change steel string – loosening string

I find it most convenient to take off all strings at once.

There are some people who claim that taking all six strings off at the same time may cause damage to your instrument. Let me tell you, I have been changing strings on steel-string guitars since 1977, always removing the whole set at once, and have never had any problems at all. Even Martin Guitars suggest you do it this way in their own video, and they should know!

String change steel string – cutting old string

Once the strings are completely loose and flabby, I cut them in half.

This isn’t something you must do, but I find the shorter lengths easier to handle, than having to deal with the whole string.

String change steel string – winder pin puller

For the largest part, steel-string acoustics come with pin bridges. The bridge pins – made out of plastic, bone, wood or even metal – keep the ball-ends locked into place.

Most string winders sport a small cut-out for lifting the bridge pins. I’d suggest, though, that you first try extracting the pins by hand, because, very often, the ball-ends have jammed the pins in place fairly tightly. Trying to pull them out directly might damage your string winder or the bridge pins, or, even worse, the bridge itself.

String change steel string – push end in

Most of the time you will be able to extract the bridge pins by hand:

Start by pushing the ball-end down (into the body) by a centimetre, or so.

String change steel string – pull pin out 1

Usually, this is all that’s needed to unjam the bridge pin.

String change steel string – pull pin out 2

If a pin really is stuck, and can’t be lifted out with your fingers, I’d strongly suggest using a piece of tissue paper (or a piece of cloth) as a cushion to protect the pin and the bridge’s surface.

tak-n20-bridge

Some acoustic guitars come equipped with a pinless bridge – most notable Ovation and some Takamines. With these bridges, all you have to do is pull the ball-ends out of the back of the bridge.

String change steel string – take string off machine head

At the headstock end you have to untie the strings and take them off the tuner posts.

If your guitar’s fretboard and/or bridge feel (or look) a little dry, now would be the perfect time for applying a little fretboard oil.

String change steel string – put pin in

You start putting on a new string by feeding the ball-end into the appropriate bridge hole, while inserting the bridge pin.

String change steel string – pull on string

By pulling the string up a little, while holding the pin down, you will conveniently get the ball-end to jam the bridge pin in place.

String change steel string – stringing 1

Next you feed the string through the tuner’s post…

String change steel string – stringing 2

…pull the string away from the body, and around the post…

String change steel string – stringing 3

…and, finally, lock the string end in place.

String change steel string – stringing 4

Keep the string pressed downwards, while you’re turning the crank. Each new winding should pass under the one before it.

String change steel string – keep pin in place

When the string starts getting taut, I move my hand from the headstock to the bridge, to make sure the bridge pin stays firmly in place.

String change steel string – cut off end

I’d recommend cutting off the surplus string in close proximity to the tuning post. Then I bend the stub down towards the headstock face. Be careful, a cut-off string is very sharp!

I put on the fresh strings in pairs, working my way away from the nut – first the two e-strings, then the pair of A and b, and lastly the D- and g-strings.

String change steel string – strings on machine heads

This is what the result should look like at the headstock end.

String change steel string – pin height

The bridge pins should sit at a uniform height above the surface of the bridge.

String change steel string – string stretching

Getting new strings to stay in tune is a much faster process, if you stretch each string carefully. It works like this: First you tune to pitch, then you stretch each string, and retune again. Once you’ve repeated this process four to five times, you should be ready to go.

Your fretting hand should hold down the string you’re stretching at the first or second fret to avoid damage to the top nut.

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Once the guitar is in tune you could check the string action at the 12th fret and compare it with the values measured with the old string set.

If the action is noticeably higher, chances are you’ve put on a heavier gauge set of strings. You need to compensate for the stronger string pull by tightening the truss rod (with the correct tool) by a quarter of a turn (or half a turn, at the most).

If the action is noticeably lower, chances are you’ve put on a lighter gauge set of strings. You need to compensate for the weaker string pull by loosening the truss rod (with the correct tool) by a quarter of a turn (or half a turn, at the most).

The truss rod is meant solely for neck relief adjustment. Even though adjusting the neck relief does have an impact on the action, string height adjustment isn’t really what the truss rod is meant for. Adjusting the action on a steel-string acoustic is usually a job for a luthier, and is achieved by changing the height of the bridge saddle.

06/03/2015

Bogner & Rupert Neve *** testi tulossa *** review coming soon

BOGNER-NEVE

Maahantuoja: Musamaailma

05/03/2015

Tulossa ::: Coming soon ::: Yamaha LL6 ARE

Maahantuoja: F-Musiikki

04/03/2015

Tulossa ++ Coming up ++ Boss VE-1 & VE-2

Maahantuoja: Roland

03/03/2015

Fender Custom Shop Road Show on n-y-t – nyt!

FCS Road SHow

DLX Helsingissä on tänään ja huomenna nähtävissä ja testattavissa parikymmentä erilaista Fender Custom Shop -soittimia.

Benty Ökvist at DLX 1

Paikan päällä on Fender Scandinavian Custom Shop -vastaava Benty Ökvist (toinen oikealta). Kokeiltavissa ovat mm. sellaisia harvinaisuuksia kuin – alun perin Jimi Hendrixille suunniteltu – Rosewood Stratocaster (näkyy kuvassa DLX Musiikin myymälänhoitajan Olli-Matti Wahlströmin kädessä).

Kuvassa myös DLX:n oma kitaratiimi Matti Härkönen (1. vasemmalta) ja Mikko Kejonen (2. vasemmalta).

Benty Ökvist at DLX 2

Ennen Custom Shop Road Show -tapahtumaa on voitu myös tilata omalle Fender-soittimelle ilmaisen säätöajan.

Benty Ökvist at DLX 3

02/03/2015

Huomenna ja ylihuomenna: Fender Custom Shop Road Show DLX Musiikissa

FCS Road SHow

Tervetuloa osallistumaan Fender Custom Shop Road Show – tapahtumaan. DLX Helsingissä nähtävillä ja testattavissa parikymmentä erilaista Fender Custom Shop -instrumenttia.

Tule säädättämään ja vaihdattamaan kielet samalla sinun Fender soittimeesi, tietysti ilmaiseksi. Aikoja varattavissa molemmille päiville klo. 11.00 – 16.00. Sitovat ilmoittautumiset ainoastaan puhelimitse 0207282250.

Suunnittele nyt oma unelmasoittimesi! Osallistu kyselyymme osoitteessa: http://goo.gl/forms/iYvWkwBZq5
Arvomme kaikkien osallistujien kesken yllätyspalkintoja ja valitsemme suunnitelmien joukosta yhden, jonka myös tilaamme myymäläämme. Suunnitelman tekijällä on mahdollisuus ostaa tämä soitin itselleen tuntuvalla alennuksella!

27/02/2015

Review: Music Man John Petrucci Majesty

Music Man Majesty – teaser

Dream Theater’s guitar wizard John Petrucci has a long and very fruitful association with Music Man. Over the years, the company has released several signature models, both US-made and as part of their less-expensive Sterling brand.

Last year Ernie Ball/Music Man have released a new top-of-the-line John Petrucci signature instrument – the Music Man Majesty (Majesty was the original name of the Progressive Rock band that became Dream Theater).

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Music Man Majesty – case

The first thing that will strike you about the new package is the sensationally low weight:

When I went to pick up the Music Man Majesty for this review (from DLX Music Helsinki), I had to open the case and check, because I suspected the guitar was missing. No, it really was in there…

Music Man Majesty – full front – video

Music Man’s Majesty (current price in Finland approx. 3,900 €) is a modern top-drawer signature model, which conveys the artist’s clear vision of what his dream guitar should be like. This isn’t simply a souped-up classic model – Petrucci and Music Man started with a clean slate.

Music Man’s new signature model is a Neck-Through design with a two-octave mahogany neck, and a very smooth neck joint at the 23rd fret.

Music Man Majesty – beauty shot 2

The Majesty’s body, too, is highly sculpted – you could call it streamlined – and it fits the player’s body perfectly.

The body wings, made from basswood, are capped by a maple top. The area on the top, which forms a sort of shield or crest, may look like graphite weave at first glance. In reality, this is a translucent area of the maple top, and what you see is a laser-etched graphic design resembling the look of carbon composite.

The review guitar’s finish is called Arctic Dream, which is a matte finish changing from violet to a dark green hue, depending on how the light hits the body.

Music Man Majesty – tuners

Music Man’s classic four-and-two headstock sports a set of locking Schaller M6-tuners.

Music Man Majesty – headstock

Below the compensated – and self-lubricating nut – you can see the metallic Dream Theater-logo inlay.

Music Man Majesty – fretboard

The quality of the fretwork on the Majesty is outstanding. We can find 24 jumbo-sized, stainless-steel frets installed into the ebony fingerboard.

The shield inlays are in fact tiny mirrors.

Music Man Majesty – vibrato bridge

The floating vibrato bridge is Music Man’s own, cool design, which features steel saddles equipped with Fishman piezo elements for acoustic-style tones.

Music Man Majesty – pickups

The Majesty’s magnetic side comprises a pair of DiMarzio Illuminator humbuckers (John Petrucci’s signature pickups), installed straight into the body wood.

Music Man Majesty – piezo switch

Music Man’s Majesty comes with a very dedicated, special switching system; the technically-minded among you can take a look at the schematics:

Music Man Majesty – schematics

The three-way switch in the top horn lets the player select between piezo-only, magnetic-only, and piezo-plus-magnetic settings.

Music Man Majesty – controls

Beneath the strings you will find a second three-position toggle switch, that works as a pickup selector for the DiMarzios.

The control next to it is the volume control for the humbuckers. It also contains a push-push switch for engaging the Majesty’s active signal boost.

The second knob is a passive tone control, whose push-push switch works in the pickup selector’s middle position. ”Down” gives you the full sonic attack of two humbuckers, while the ”up” position switches off the outer coils of both pickups for thinner, more Fender-style sounds.

The third switch (near the output jack) is the volume control for the piezo signal. This knob sports a momentary switch, which allows you to reconfigure the output from standard mono – both the piezo and magnetic signals are sent to the same amplifier – to ”stereo”, enabling you to use a Y-cable to send the piezo’s output to a dedicated acoustic amp (or to a mixing console).

Music Man Majesty – trim pots

By using a tiny screwdriver you can adjust the active signal booster for the humbuckers, as well as set the maximum volume of the piezo signal, and the Fishman two-band EQ.

Music Man Majesty – back beauty

The Majesty’s active electronics are powered by a 9 V block.

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Music Man Majesty – body beauty

Some ”signature models” are only for posing. Others are simply souped-up, or slightly tweaked, versions of classic guitar models.

Music Man’s Majesty is one of the few instances, when a guitar hero had very clear and strong views regarding the look, the features, and the sounds of his dream guitar. Petrucci and Music Man set to work, and no compromises were accepted.

The Majesty is a fantastic instrument, and each guitar leaves the factory set up to Mr Petrucci’s exacting specifications. You get the exact guitar the master himself plays on stage and in the studio.

As already mentioned, this guitar is extremely light and comfortable, and balances perfectly on a guitar strap.

The neck profile is a relatively thin D. The satin-finished neck feels very fast and friendly, without being insubstantial.

Thanks to the jumbo frets and the flat fingerboard radius (17″) the Majesty is very bend-friendly. The action is low, but completely free of fret buzz (low-E: 1.7 mm/high-e: 1.6 mm).

The Majesty’s floating vibrato works very smoothly, and has excellent return-to-pitch.

The piezo system works great! It gives you a credible ”acoustic” tone in the context of a Rock or Metal band, and also comes in handy to ”freshen up” the Majesty’s magnetic signal (the clip has the following order:  piezo –> piezo + coil split –> coil split):

Here’s an example of the clean magnetic tones you can get from this Music Man. The powerful DiMarzio Illuminators are loaded with ceramic magnets (neck PU –> both (full) –> both (coil split) –> bridge PU):

The Majesty’s coil split and active boost give you three different degrees of distortion without even stepping on a single pedal. This clip has the coil split first, followed by the full middle position:

The active boost on this Petrucci-guitar is a great addition to any guitarist’s tool-pack, used here on the bridge pickup:

And, lastly, the audio track off the Youtube-video:

Music Man Majesty – body beauty 2

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Music Man Majesty – beauty shot

The Music Man John Petrucci Majesty is a top-grade signature guitar with an extremely wide array of sounds. In addition to the high quality and exemplary workmanship on display, the best thing about this guitar is that the Majesty’s features, its playability and its versatile sound also make it a great choice for many other guitarists, too.

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Music Man John Petrucci Majesty

approx. 3,900 € (hard case included)

Finnish distributor: EM Nordic

A big thank you to DLX Music Helsinki for providing the review guitar!

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Pros:

+ workmanship

+ finish

+ non-locking vibrato bridge

+ playability

+ versatile electronics and switching

+ sound

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