Assembling Your First Pedalboard

Tätä juttua on alun perin julkaistu suomeksi Rockway-blogissa.


Even though the first guitar effects were already introduced in the mid-1960s, guitar pedals only started to become affordable and widely available in the late-1970s with brands such as Boss. Ibanez and MXR.


Why do I need a pedalboard?

Back in the early Seventies most guitarists used one to three effects at the most on stage, if any. Back then the signal chain was straightforward and easy to set up and tear down. There were maybe a couple of guitars, a guitar lead, a couple of effect pedals, a short patch cable, as well as a long cable from the front of the stage to the amplifier.

In the early days most guitarists weren’t even too particular with their live sound. If the guitar sounded a little different from one show to another, who cares? The main objective was to keep the show on the road.

These days both the musician and his/her audience are much more discerning, and want to hear a fairly accurate version of a song’s recorded guitar and bass sounds live as well. Most players are very knowledgeable and specific when it comes to their signature sounds, as well as the pedals they use. A dependable and ”secure” signal chain is a prerequisite for the professional musician of today.

If you carry your effects around in a sports bag, setting up your signal chain – and troubleshooting it in case of problems – is much more time-consuming than pulling a clean pedalboard out of its gig bag (or case) and connecting only a couple of audio cables; one for the guitar and one for the amp.

A pedalboard also protects your effects and patch cables from damage by keeping them firmly in place during transport. Additionally, powering all your effect pedals is much easier using one central power supply for the whole board.

Luckily, the 2020s offer us a wide array of different solutions for the budding ’board builder, making even the assembly of a complex signal chain relatively easy.

If you want to find out all there is to know about pro-grade pedalboard assembly, I can heartily recommend you check out Kimmo Aroluoma’s in-depth online guide.

Kimmo Aroluoma, who is the founder of Custom Boards Finland, has spent years on the road as one of Finland’s most sought-after guitar technicians. Kimmo has worked for acts such as The Rasmus, HIM, or Hanoi Rocks. These days Kimmo spends most of his time running Custom Boards, a company dedicated to making world-class pedalboards, as well as supplying pro-grade components to DIY pedalboard builders.

Is there a ”correct” order for effect groups?

Find out more on the best order for effects placement HERE.

Making music is a creative process, so any type of experimentation is highly encouraged, but if you want to ensure that your ’board will work in the desired way with the least amount of hassle, the above picture will get you there. Of course this effect order works also with effects that are not placed on a pedalboard.

The yellow box is home to such effects that will only work reliably with a pure/dry guitar signal. The orange box contains effects that add gain and texture to your signal. Next up are modulation effects. The green box adds space to your signal, as well as providing a good spot for a master volume pedal. And if you use an audiolooper and/or a booster pedal they should be placed last.

Plan before you act

You should definitely plan your new pedalboard, before you buy anything. Otherwise you can easily end up buying something that isn’t right for what you’re trying to achieve.

Choosing the effect pedals

What is the purpose of the ’board? What type of music do you play? Are you in a Metal band or do you play Top 10 covers?

The fact that there’s an old pedal lying around somewhere in a box isn’t a good enough reason to add this pedal to your new pedalboard. There should be a logical, musical or practical reason behind any addition to your effect chain, because any unnecessary addition could potentially degrade your guitar signal.

I had been dreaming about a compact board for playing Psychedelic Rock music – a bit ”Hendrix-ey”, but not necessarily totally authentic.

Because my main objective is ”compact” I have chosen a Jim Dunlop CBM95 Mini Crybaby-wah-wah for this project, as it is small enough to fit almost any ’board. Next up there are three blocks of different gain effects – a fuzz-style Electro-Harmonix Nano Big Muff Pi, as well as an EHX double-pedal – the Germanium 4 Big Muff Pi – to provide slightly wonky overdrive and distortion effects. The last pedal is a vintage-style phaser – the EHX Small Stone Nano. Tremolo, reverb and additional boosting are provided by my combo amp.

Patch cables

You should buy the best patch cables you can afford, because a poor quality cable will degrade your sound noticeably by ”eating away” your signal’s dynamic and treble content (especially with traditional passive pickups). There are many different models of ready-made patch cables available.

The number of patch cables you’ll need is dependent on the number of effect pedals you’re going to use. The individual length of each patch cable is determined by the physical placement of the pedals on the ’board. You should also remember to make sure that the plug design on a patch will fit in the space between two pedals. Choosing a relatively fat cable with large-bodied plugs will automatically mean that your pedals will have to be placed a little bit further apart.

Many professional pedalboard makers use bespoke patch cables for their clients’ pedalboards, using top-grade thin cable material coupled with special (no-solder) screw-on plugs. These patch cables save a lot of real estate on the ’board, while also being thin enough to be secured with the same security clips used for the ’board’s DC-power cables.

The physical placement of pedals and patch cables

My compact pedalboard will need no complicated wiring. I will place the effects in the physical order in which they appear in the signal chain in one simple row. This makes it very easy to use pre-made, off-the-shelf patch cables, because the signal continues straight on from one effect to the next.

In larger and more complex cases it may be more convenient to place the pedals that are used most in the bottom row of a ’board, with lesser-used effects placed farther away in the second row. On such ’boards the signal flow can be decidedly different from the physical order of the pedals. In such cases you should prepare a signal flow chart for yourself, so you can easily look up how you have planned to hook up all of the effects. Placing the pedals in their approximate place on the ’board frame will make it easy to measure the lengths of all the patch cables needed.

Choosing your pedalboard frame

To find the best pedalboard frame for your project you have to measure the outer dimensions (width and height) of your effect array, but you shouldn’t forget to take into account how you plan to install your pedals on your board. Most ’board frames these days are made from metal, and the pedals are installed with adhesive hook-and-loop fastener tapes – either generic velcro (sold with most frames) or industry-grade 3M Dual Lock-tape (bought separately).

There are also a few companies who use their own types of screw-on bottom plates or side clamps on their board frames.

Choosing a power supply aka PSU

You have to choose your PSU according to the physical space of your ’board frame, as well as according to the power needs of your effect pedals. There is a plethora of different PSUs available on the market these days; some pedalboard brands also offer frames with pre-installed power supply units.

Do check the power requirements of each of the pedals that will go on your pedalboard. You should check for voltage (9, 12 or 18 V), for milliamperes, and for the type and polarity of the connector plug. Note that there are a few pedals out there that will require alternating current (AC) in contrast to most effects that run on DC! Pro-grade PSUs come with a whole set of different pedal power cables. Make sure that the set includes all the cables (and connectors) you require. If not you will have to buy the additional cables you need.

Because a pedalboard runs audio effects the power supplied by the PSU has to be ”clean”, e. g. free from extraneous noise, buzz and hum. Most traditional pedalboard PSUs provide this type of isolated power with the help of a whole row of tiny transformers. The transformers make sure no mains hum gets into the pedals’ power cables, while also isolating each of the outputs individually.

Because I have chosen the very compact and flat Palmer Pedalbay 50S frame, most professional PSUs cannot be mounted underneath the pedalboard in my case. Luckily, a 1Spot ”wall-wart” can be a viable option, if you forsake the additional safety and dependability of a ’board-mounted PSU. I’m not planning on touring with this pedalboard, and all the transporting will be done either by car or public transport, meaning the long cable between the transformer and the daisy chain cable will not be a problem for me. Additionally, I’m not running more than four pedals concurrently, and there’s no power-hungry digital multieffect in the group, so a simple daisy-chain set-up will work here.

Building my pedalboard

Here’s where it starts

Here’s what everything looks like at the beginning. I forgot to put the scissors in the picture, used to cut the velcro to size. Additionally, I made a last-minute switch to black cable ties, because they looked better, after all.

Cleaning all connectors

Should one of your chosen pedals be faulty, you should have it repaired before it goes on the pedalboard. One faulty pedal will have a very detrimental effect on the whole signal chain and the reliability of your new ’board.

You should clean all audio jacks before you assemble your ’board by squirting a little bit of switch cleaner (like PRF 7-78 Kontakt) on a 1/4″ plug, and then inserting and unplugging the plug several times from the jack. Repeat for each audio input and output.

Cleaning all bottom plates

Before you can use any adhesive material on a pedal’s base plate, you will have to take off all rubber feet from the pedal. Velcro and 3M Dual Lock need a smooth and clean surface for them to stick reliably to a pedal’s bottom plate. Sometimes using an additional cleaning agent (like PRF Label Off) can help to get rid of any old glue residue.

On my Electro-Harmonix effects my work is made easier by the separate little rubber feet this company uses. Most Boss and Ibanez pedals, on the other hand, use large rubber or silicone mats, which are much harder to get to grips with. I’d recommend looking for the appropriate removal techniques in the Custom Boards online guide or on Internet forums.

Prevent leakage!

Remove all batteries from the pedals that go on your ’board. The patch cables stay inserted in each pedal’s input jack, which means any battery will be drained in a matter of hours (or a couple of days at the most). Taking the batteries out will prevent damage from leaking batteries in the long run.

Applying the adhesive

Now it’s time for the velcro to go on the base plates of the pedals. Make sure the adhesive tape sits nice and flat with no air bubbles.

The Palmer Pedalbay 50S comes with the loop side adhesive already installed on the frame. Most other models require you to glue the loop side yourself. If I were to use 3M Dual Lock on this ’board, on the other hand, I’d have to remove the pre-installed adhesive first and clean up all glue residue, before putting on the Dual Lock.

Installing the effects and patch cables

As there’s usually only a certain amount of space on a pedalboard, an effect pedal has to be installed on the frame with the patch cable already inserted in the previous effect’s output and this effect’s input. A 1/4″ plug is too long to be inserted after you’ve put all the pedals next to each other.

Installing the DC-cables with security clips

You’ll achieve a very clean and professional look by wiring the power supply cables from the ’board frame’s underside.

Many guitar shops also sell stick-on plastic security clips, which are just the ticket to keep all the DC-cables in place and securely out of harm’s way.

Time to check out your new pedalboard

This is a good time for a trial run of your new pedalboard with a guitar and an amp. Check out if the placement and the distance between the footswitches is convenient for you. Do all effects power on and off as they should? Is the signal going to the amp free from extraneous noise and hum?

In my project everything worked fine, but if you need help troubleshooting your pedal, you should consult Custom Boards’ builder’s guide.

Securing the patch cables

Because I’ve used off-the-shelf MXR patch cables for my project, and the cables had a relatively large diameter and flat, but wide, plug bodies, securing the patch cables with small plastic clips wasn’t really feasible. This is why I’ve chosen cable ties.

The idea is to keep the patch cables out of harm’s way – or should that be foot’s way – so that it’s impossible to step on them. You apply only a minimal amount of pull on the cable ties. You only want to keep the patch cables from moving around, you don’t want to damage the cables’ outer insulating layer.

Many DIY patch cables are thin enough to be secured with the same type of stick-on security clips used for the DC-cables.

Uusi kirja Kimmo Aroluomalta: Jenkkirundi – seitsemän viikkoa kiertue­-elämää


”Suuri USA-kiertue” – se kuulostaa monen muusikon korviin todella houkuttelevalta. Yksityiskoneita, limusiineja, glamouria, kauniita naisia, helppoa elämää, paljon rahaa…

Väärin meni!

Vaikka olisitkin maailmankuulun bändin kitaristi, silloin kun olet sivuprojektisi kanssa liikenteessä, tulet Yhdysvalloissa aloittamaan (lähes) nollasta, nimittäin pelkkänä lämmittelybändinä.

Kimmo Aroluoman uutuuskirja ”Jenkkirundi – seitsemän viikkoa kiertue­-elämää” seuraa aitiopaikalta Mikko ”Linde” Lindstömin (HIM) ”soolobändin”, Daniel Lioneyen, ensimmäistä USA-kiertuetta, jolla Aroluoma toimi bändin teknikkona.

Aroluoman kirjasta selviää millaista se on, kun suomalainen bändi lähtee Jenkkeihin support-bändinä äärimmäisen tiukalla budjetilla. Glamour on joka tapauksessa todellisuudesta hyvin kaukana.

”Jenkkirundi – seitsemän viikkoa kiertue­-elämää” ei ole opas kiertueelle lähteville bändeille, vaikka kirjasta selviää esimerkiksi miten kiertuebudjetti laaditaan, vaan se on rehellinen katselmus USA-kiertueella vastaan tulevista koettelemuksista.

Toisena juonena tässä erinomaisessa kirjassa toimii kirjoittajan oma henkinen (ja fyysinenkin) kärsimys- ja kasvutarina täydellisen burnoutin ja avioeron partaalla.

Tästä syntyy lukemisen arvoinen kokonaisuus, joka kertoo siitä miten bändi ja heidän taustavoimat saivat käännettyä rundin ulkoisista paineista, teknisistä vaikeuksista ja henkilökohtaisista ongelmista huolimatta tärkeäksi menestykseksi.

”Jenkkirundi – seitsemän viikkoa kiertue­-elämää” (130 sivua; 16,90 €) ilmestyy 01.09.2016. Kirjan voi tilata ennakkoon TÄÄLTÄ.






Review: T-Rex Replicator

T-Rex Replicator – angle 2

Danish effects specialists T-Rex have caused an enormous stir with their newest guitar pedal. Their new stompbox – called  the Replicator – is a genuine, all analogue tape delay, hand-assembled in Denmark. These days tape echoes in themselves are rather rare beasts, but T-Rex ups the ante by giving us the first tape delay with a built-in tap tempo function!


What is a tape delay?

The tape delay was the first studio effect invented (back when Rock ’n’ Roll was in its infancy), and it was produced by ”misusing” an open-reel tape recorder (hence the name).

The magnetic tape recorder – originally called the Magnetophon – was a German invention from the 1930s, which used a plastic tape coated with magnetisable material as its recording medium.

An empty – or wiped – magnetic tape has all the metal particles in its magnetisable surface pointing in the same direction. The result is silence (in theory) – or rather: some tape hiss.

During recording the recording head transforms the incoming audio signal into magnetic bursts of different strength, wavelength and polarity, and magnetises the tape’s metal particles, rearranging them into different magnetic clusters. During playback these ”magnetic ripples” are picked up by the playback head and translated back into an audio signal.

In tape recorders, such as open-reel studio machines or C-Cassette recorders, many different factors affect the audio quality of the playback. These factors include things such as the physical condition of the tape, tape width, tape speed, the condition of the parts involved in the mechanical transport of the tape, as well as the exact position of the playback head in relation to the tape.

Most C-Cassette players have/had only two heads – one erase head, plus a combined recording and playback head – but reel-to-reel tape recorders in the studio usually came with at least three heads (erase, record, playback). Thanks to the separate recording and playback heads the studio engineer was able to listen to the recording in progress as it sounded on the tape, while it was being recorded (to listen for tape distortion or tape defects/drop-outs).

Because there is a small physical distance between the recording and playback head, there’s always a short audible delay between the signal being recorded and the playback off the tape. The length of this delay is directly dependent on the distance between the two heads, as well as on the tape speed.

In the end, a recording engineer somewhere hit upon the bright idea to use the studio’s backup tape machine as an ”effect processor”. The engineer used the main recorder in the usual way, to record the song’s final (live-) mix off the mixing console’s master buss. The spare tape recorder was fed only the instruments and vocal parts (from the mixer) which needed to receive tape delay. If you mixed the output of the second recorder’s playback head into the recording desk you got a single delay effect. By feeding a small portion of the delay signal back into the delay tape machine’s input you could get multiple delays.

T-Rex Replicator – under the hood

Tape delays meant for live use usually come with more than one playback head, which makes it easier to fine-tune the length of the echo effect, and which makes rhythmic delay patterns possible. Almost all mobile tape echoes use tape loops as their recording medium.

The T-Rex Replicator comes equipped with four tape heads:

The black head is the erase head, next in line is the record head, followed by two playback heads.


T-Rex Replicator – carrying bag

The T-Rex Replicator (current price in Finland: 849 €) comes in its own, vintage-themed ”vinyl leather” carrying bag, which contains the Replicator itself, as well as its power supply, a second tape loop cartridge, the owner’s manual, and a set of cotton swabs (for cleaning the heads with a drop of isopropyl alcohol).

T-Rex Replicator – angle

The Replicator is quite a rugged pice of gear, made to withstand onstage use.

The 24 VDC power supply, though, seemed a little weedy in comparison.

T-Rex Replicator – back panel

The back panel offers the following connectors:

There are the input and output jacks, as well as two connectors for expression pedals, should you want to control the delay time (tape speed) and/or the feedback on the fly.

The little Kill Dry-switch mutes the dry (uneffected) signal in the Replicator’s output. This is a very handy feature, should you want to run the Replicator connected to a parallel effect loop, or to a mixing desk using a send/return-bus.

T-Rex Replicator – top view

The T-Rex Replicator offers you six controls and four footswitches to control its functions:

The On/Off-switch does what it says on the tin. When the delay effect is off the Replicator’s tape loop stops running.

The Heads-switch gives you access to the effect’s three delay modes by switching the playback heads on or off. A green light means you’re using the long mode (delay times of approx. 250 – 1.200 ms), red stands for short mode (125 – 600 ms), while orange means you’re running both playback heads simultaneously for a rhythmic delay pattern.

Stepping onto the Chorus-switch will introduce deliberate wow and flutter (tape speed fluctuations) to produce a chorus-style effect that can be fine-tuned with the corresponding control.

Tap Tempo does what it says on the tin. Although this is quite a normal feature on digital delay units, the Tap Tempo-switch on the Replicator is huge news for tape delay fans. T-Rex have developed a system to control the unit’s motor digitally, making it possible, for the first time, to synchronise a tape delay precisely on the fly.

The Saturate-control holds a pivotal role for the sound of the Replicator’s delays. Depending on its settings the effect can either be clean and dynamic or greasy and overdriven.

Adjusting the Delay Time- and Feedback-controls on the fly can produce some wild and wonderful effects (in Feedback’s case up to and including self-oscillation).


T-Rex Replicator – running 2

Despite being a child of the Sixties, who has used a tape echo as the main effect in his first band’s PA-system, I have to admit that I’ve grown accustomed to the clarity and precision of digital effects. My first reaction when I tried out the Replicator for this review was ”Is it supposed to sound like this, or is there something wrong?”

Alas, it didn’t take long for the memories of a distant past to return, and I started to really enjoy the genuine old-school tones emanating from the Replicator. You should remember, though, that the Replicator is meant as a handy, portable tool for the guitarist or keyboard player. You shouldn’t expect Queen-style ultra-long, studio quality delay sounds from a compact unit such as this.

Tape speed is of course the most important variable, when it comes to the audio quality of the delay effects – short delay times (= faster running tape loop) will naturally result in cleaner and more stable sounds than long delay times (= a slow running tape).

The first audio clip has been recorded with the shortest possible delay time, while the second clip lets you hear the Replicator running at maximum delay (both clips feature all three head modes):

In my view, the T-Rex Replicator is a portable tape delay of professional quality. You should keep in mind, though, that a genuine analogue tape echo is always (!) a low-fi device in comparison to a digital delay pedal. But it is exactly this authenticity, the slight greasiness, and the sense of unpredictability a genuine tape echo conveys, that makes the Replicator such an enjoyable piece of equipment. The T-Rex’ delay never sounds tacked on, instead it becomes a natural part of your guitar signal’s harmonic content.

I’d say it is hard to overemphasise the advantages this unit’s tap tempo-function brings. The Replicator makes synching your delay child’s play.

I used the T-Rex Replicator to record two demo tracks, which show off the effect’s sounds in different musical contexts:

Demo Track 1

Demo Track 2

T-Rex Replicator – running


T-Rex Replicator – top view 2

There’s no beating about the bush about this – the single restrictive factor to seeing the Replicator creep into the pedalboard of each and every guitarist is the unit’s steep price. Most players will baulk at a price tag of over 800 euros for a ”lo-fi effect”, and rather opt for one of the numerous tape delay modellers, like the Strymon El Capistan.

The Replicator, which is lovingly assembled by hand in Denmark, will find most of its clientele among vintage collectors and well-heeled boutique guitar and amp connoisseurs. If you run your original 1950s guitar through an equally vintage amplifier, running an authentic, mechanical tape delay unit will be like the icing on the cake. Especially, if the tape delay is as reliable and easy to use as the T-Rex Replicator.

Is the T-Rex Replicator the best genuine tape delay ever? To my knowledge, there are currently three different new tape echo models on the market – each of them sound great. I would pick the Replicator, though, because it is small enough to fit on a medium-to-large pedalboard, and because of its nifty tap tempo feature.


T-Rex Replicator

849 €

Finnish distribution: Custom Sounds



+ hand-assembled in Denmark

+ tap tempo

+ two playback heads

+ easy to exchange the tape cartridge

+ authentic sound

+ compact size


– flimsy PSU cable

– price

















Testipenkissä: T-Rex Replicator

T-Rex Replicator – angle 2

Tanskalainen efektivalmistaja T-Rex aiheutti aikamoisen kohun sen uudella efektipedaalilla. Replicator-niminen laite on nimittäin Tanskassa käsintehty aito nauhakaiku. Nauhakaiut ovat jo sinänsä nykyään melko harvinaisia laitteita, mutta T-Rexin uutuus tarjoaa ensimmäisenä maailmassa digiefekteistä tutun tap tempo -ominaisuuden.


Mikä on nauhakaiku?

Nauhakaiku oli ensimmäinen varsinainen efekti äänitysstudioissa (Rock ’n’ Rollin syntymän aikoina), ja se luotiin alun perin väärinkäyttämällä studion kelanauhuria tahallaan.

Kelanauhuri on 1930-luvun saksalaiskeksintö (alkuperäinen nimi oli Magnetophon), jossa tallennusvälineenä toimi magnetoitavilla metallihiukkasilla päällystetty muovinauha.

Tyhjässä – tai pyyhityssä – nauhassa kaikki metallihiukkaset ovat siistissä rivissä ja osoittavat samaan suuntaan. Tästä syntyy teoreettinen hiljaisuus ja todellisuudessa nauhan kohina.

Äänitysvaiheessa äänipää muuttaa tulevan signaalin muuttuvaksi magneettikentäksi, joka magnetisoi nauhan metallihiukkasia ja muuttaa näin niiden suuntaa. Toistovaiheessa äänipää taas lukee näitä nauhaan tallennettuja ”magneettiryppyjä”, jotka muutetaan takaisin audiosignaaliksi.

Kelanauhureissa (ja kasettisoittimissa) äänenlaatuun vaikuttavat monet tekijät, kuten nauhan fyysinen kunto, nauhan leveys, nauhan kulkunopeus, äänipään ja nauhurin kuljetusmekanismin kunto, tai äänipään asento nauhaan nähden.

C-kasettinauhureissa on yleensä vain kaksi päätä – poistopää ja yhdistetty äänitys- ja toistopää – mutta studiokäyttöön tarkoitetuissa kelanauhureissa on tavallisesti ainakin kolme päätä – poistopää, äänityspää ja toistopää. Erillisen äänitys- ja toistopään järjestelmän ansiosta on mahdollista kuunnella jo äänityksen aikana, miltä äänite kuulostaa nauhalla (esimerkiksi särön tai rikkinäisen nauhan varalta).

Koska äänitys- ja toistopään välillä on fyysinen matka, toistopään signaali on aina vähän tulosignaalia jäljessä. Aikaeron pituus on riippuvainen päiden välisestä etäisyydestä ja nauhan kulkunopeudesta.

Lopulta joku keksi hankkia studioon kaksi kelanauhuria. Toinen oli master-nauhuri, jonne äänitettiin biisin lopullinen (live-) miksaus, kun taas toiseen lähetettiin mikserista ne signaalit, joihin haluttiin lisätä erillisen toistopään tuottama viive-efekti (yksi toisto). Syöttämällä osan efektinauhurista tulevasta signaalista takaisin saman nauhurin tuloon saatiin haluttaessa syntymään kokonainen toistojen ketju.

T-Rex Replicator – under the hood

Live-käyttöön tarkoitetuissa nauhakaiuissa on usein enemmän kuin yksi toistopää, minkä ansiosta eri pituisten viive-efektien ja/tai rytmisten toistojen tuottaminen helpottuu. Lisäksi tallennusvälineenä toimii miltei aina nauhasilmukka, joka pyörii omassa erikoiskasetissa.

T-Rex Replicatorissa on neljä päätä:

Musta pää on poistopää, seuraavaksi on äänityspää, ja kaksi viimeistä ovat toistopäitä.


T-Rex Replicator – carrying bag

Vintage-teemaan sopivasti T-Rex Replicator (849 €) myydään omassa keinonahkaisessa kantolaukussa, josta löytyy efektilaitteen lisäksi ulkoinen virtalähde, toinen nauhakasetti, selkeät käyttöohjeet, sekä muutama vanupuikko äänipäiden ja koneiston varovaiseen putsaamiseen (isopropyylillä).

T-Rex Replicator – angle

Replicator on todella tukevasti valmistettu laite, joka on nähtävästi suunniteltu myös live-käyttöä varten.

Ainoastaan laitteen mukana tuleva muovinen 24 VDC -verkkomuunnin, ja etenkin sen ohut johto saavat testaajalta muutaman miinuspisteen.

T-Rex Replicator – back panel

Takapaneelista löytyy tarvittavat liittimet:

Tulo- ja lähtöjakkien lisäksi löytyy vielä kaksi liitintä, joiden kautta pystyy säätämään ekspressiopedaaleilla sekä delay-ajan (nauhan nopeuden) että signaalin takaisinkytkennän (Feedback).

Kill Dry -kytkimellä saa poistettua tulosignaalin kokonaan Replicatorin lähtösignaalista. Tämä on tärkeä ominaisuus, jos haluaa käyttää nauhakaikua rinnakkaisessa efektilenkissä tai send/return-periaatteella pedaalilaudassa tai mikserin kanssa.

T-Rex Replicator – top view

T-Rex Replicator tarjoaa käyttäjälle kuusi säädintä ja neljä jalkakytkintä:

On/Off-kytkimellä laitetaan – luonnollisesti – nauhakaiku päälle tai pois; kun Replicator on pois päältä nauha ei pyöri.

Heads-kytkimellä valitaan nauhakaiun toistopäitä – vihreä valo tarkoittaa pidempiä viiveaikoja (noin 250 – 1.200 ms), punaisessa moodissa toinen pää antaa puoleksi lyhyemmät viiveajat (125 – 600 ms), ja oranssi merkkivalo palaa silloin kun molemmat toistopäät toimivat yhtä aikaa.

Chorus-kytkimellä ja Chorus-säätimellä voidaan lisätä tahallista nauhan huojuntaa, mikä vaikuttaa toistojen sävelkorkeuteen:

Tap Tempo -kytkin on tämän nauhakaiun uusi, ennennäkemätön ominaisuus. Digitaalisesti synkronoitu moottori mahdollistaa Replicatorin intuitiivista ja nopeata säätämistä.

Saturate-säätimellä on tärkeä rooli, koska sillä säädetään nauhakaiun äänitystasoa. Saturate-asetuksesta riippuu toistojen puhtaus ja kompressointi.

Delay Timen ja Feedbackin säätäminen lennossa tuottaa villejä efektejä (Feedbackin tapauksessa jopa itseoskillaatioon asti).


T-Rex Replicator – running 2

Vaikka olen itse 1960-luvun lapsi, joka on käyttänyt koulubändini aikoina vielä aitoa nauhakaikua, täytyy myöntää, että digitaalisen vallankumouksen takia kuuloni on tottunut sen verran puhtaisiin, tasaisiin ja kirkkaisiin viive-efekteihin, että ensivaikutelma oli ”Onko laitteessa joku vika?”

Muisto menneistä soundeista kuitenkin palasi hyvinkin nopeasti, ja sen myötä Replicatorin aitojen nauhakaikusoundien diggailu ja nautinto. On kuitenkin muistettava, että T-Rexin uutuuslaite on tarkoitettu kitaristin (tai kiipparistin) pedaalilautaan mahtuvaksi efektipedaaliksi. Näissä raameissa olisi täysin epärealistista odottaa Replicatorilta Queen-tyylisiä superpitkiä, mutta samalla studiolaatuisia toistoja (joita on tehty studiossa kahdella tai kolmella isokokoisella master-nauhurilla).

Nauhan kulkunopeudella on iso vaikutus toistojen äänenlaatuun – nopeasti kulkevasta nauhasta (= lyhyet delay-ajat) tulee tuoreempaa ja laadullisesti vakaampaa jälkeä kuin hitaasti kulkevasta nauhasta (= pitkät delay-ajat). Ensimmäisessä pätkässä on valittu lyhyin mahdollinen delay-aika, kun taas toisessa pätkässä kuulee maksimiviiveen soundeja (kaikissa Heads-variaatioissa):

Mielestäni T-Rex Replicator on erittäin laadukas nauhakaiku. Ei pidä kuitenkaan unohtaa, että aito nauhakaiku on toimintaperiaatteeltaan aina (!) lo-fi-laite. Mutta se on juuri tämä aitous, se soundin lämpöä, sekä nauhan tuoma tietynlainen ”vaara” ja ”arvaamattomuus”, mikä tekee Replicatorin käytöstä niin nautittavan. T-Rexin toistot eivät kuulosta päälle liimatuilta, vaan niistä tulee kitarasoundin harmoninen osa.

Ei voi mielestäni yliarvioida Replicatorissa tap tempo -toiminnon tuomaa hyötyä. Nauhakaiun synkronointi biisiin ei koskaan ollut näin vaivatonta.

Äänitin T-Rex Replicatorilla kaksi erityylistä demobiisiä, joista voi kuulla uutuuslaitteen soundeja bändisovituksen kontekstissa.

Demobiisi 1

Demobiisi 2

T-Rex Replicator – running


T-Rex Replicator – top view 2

Ei kannata kierrellä ja kaarrella, vaan suurin (käytännössä ainoa) rajoittava seikka T-Rex Replicator -nauhakaiun käyttössä on sen korkea hinta. Tavalliselle keskivertokitaristille yli 800 euroa yhdestä lo-fi-efektilaitteesta on yksinkertaisesti liikkaa. Meille kuolevaisille nauhakaiun laadukas digitaalinen mallinnus (esimerkiksi Strymon El Capistan) tyydyttää omia lo-fi-tarpeita enemmän kuin riittävän hyvin.

Huolellisesti Tanskassa käsin rakennetun Replicatorin käyttäjäkunta löytyy varmaan enemmän vintage-keräilijöiden joukosta, sekä boutique-vahvistimien ja -soittimien käyttäjien leiristä. Jos on aito 1950/60-luvun sähkökitara ja vahvistin, saa T-Rexistä näiden rinnalle autenttisen, mekaanisesti toimivan viive-efektin, joka toimii varmasti luotettavammin kuin loppuun kulunut vintage-nauhakaiku.

Onko T-Rex Replicator paras nauhakaiku ikinä? Tietääkseni maailmassa on tällä hetkellä kolme nauhakaikua sarjatuotannossa, ja kaikissa on soundi kohdallaan. Minä valitsisin kuitenkin Replicatorin, koska se mahtuu (isoon) pedaalilautaan ja koska sillä on tap tempo -toiminto.


T-Rex Replicator

849 €

Maahantuoja: Custom Sounds



+ käsintehty Tanskassa

+ tap tempo

+ kaksi toistopäätä

+ helppo nauhan vaihto

+ autenttinen soundi

+ kompakti koko


– virtalähteen johto

– hinta


Now on SoundCloud: T-Rex Replicator

• Genuine tape echo
• 100% analog signal
• True bypass
• Two playback heads for three modes of operation
• Tap tempo
• ”Kill dry” switch
• Expression pedal control of time and feedback
• Comes with second tape cartridge and soft bag
Demo Track
• All guitar tracks recorded using the Replicator and a Blackstar HT-1R valve combo
• Rhythm guitars – Fender Stratocaster (left channel) & Fender Telecaster (right channel)
• Lead guitar – Fender Stratocaster


Maahantuoja: Custom Sounds

Tiedote: Custom Sounds -koulutus – Soittokamojen huolto


Järjestämme sunnuntaina 13.3.2016 vuoden ensimmäisen Custom Sounds- koulutuksen. Kurssi on suunnattu kaikille, joita kiinnostaa, miten omat soittokamansa saa pidettyä kunnossa.

Miten huollat kitaraasi?

Miten pidät kitarasi vireessä koko keikan ajan?

Miten pidät vahvistimesi kunnossa?

Miten kasataan ammattimainen, kiertueita kestävä pedaalilauta?

Kouluttajina toimivat Custom Soundsin kitarahuoltaja ja kaksi Custom Boardsin teknikkoa, jotka auttavat sinua ratkomaan ongelmiasi ja pärjäämään laitteistosi kanssa täysin itse. Käymme läpi soittimet, johdot, pedaalilaudan, vahvistimen ja kaiuttimet niiden yleisimpien ongelmien kautta. Opit tekemään pikahuollon vahvistimellesi turvallisesti ja helposti.

Päivän kruunaa artistivieraamme Erja Lyytinen. Puhumme Erjan kanssa keikkailun haasteista ja kitaroiden ja vahvistimien huollon tärkeydestä ammattimuusikon näkökulmasta. Erja esittelee meille slide-soittoa ja miten hän käyttää efektejään hyödyksi keikoilla. Käymme myös läpi hänen koko keikkakalustonsa “plektrasta kartioon” -periaatteella.

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